I went surfing with school at balangan and it took me so long to catch a wave and I finally caught a wave and it was pretty good. I was pumping down the line and threw a little bit of spray and did a finnishing snap.
Thats when a set came and I was on the inside for it and I got smashed. Then a nother one came and again, I got smashed. And another one. Then there was a smaller wave and I paddled as hard as i could but I did not make it and I new I couldn’t duckdive it so I threw my board.
I looked at my board and saw it in two pieces and another set came so i threw my half board and the other half got swept down on to the beach and my friend Lincoln got it.He didn’t surf because it was too big for him so he just played on the beach. More sets came which meant more hold downs with my half board. My friend Bara helped me go in but it’s kinda hard to catch a wave in with one side of a snapped board.
I finally arrived at the beach and thanked Lincoln and told Dendy ( my coach) what had happened to my board ( TIP : I snapped that board in front of froggy’s and that’s where my dad snpped his too so when it’s shallow and a little bit big don’t surf there unless you don’t mind a snapped board)
THE END
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